Downtown Furnished Loft in a Full Service Building

!9#: Downtown Furnished Loft in a Full Service Building

www.rutenbergrealtyny.com -ENORMOUS Downtown Furnished LOFT w/ Swimming POOL & Washer/Dryer- Located in a Full Service building designed by ARMANI CASA w/ amazing Hotel Style amenities in mind...Features a Stainless Steel CHEF'S Kitchen, a KING Sized Bed area, a Huge SLATE Bathroom w/ SHOWER and TUB, Dining Area, Large Living Roo, and A Washer/Dryer. Also included are bed linens, towels, plates & utensils, TV/Cable...Just bring your clothes! Building Amenities include a SWIMMING POOL, Fitness Center, Sun Deck w/ City Views, Billiards Room, Lounge/Business Center, GOLF Simulator and a Full Service Concierge...all FREE!!! www.rutenbergrealtyny.com

Downtown Furnished Loft in a Full Service Building

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"The Grotto" alkali basin burghal flat attic vacation & accumulated rental

!9#: "The Grotto" alkali basin burghal flat attic vacation & accumulated rental

www.utahsbestvacationrentals.com Guest house to Princess Bellagio in salt lake city, UT, Beautiful 1 bath studio loft cottage. salt lake city utah studio loft vacation rental home and apartment for rent. King size bed, full size futon bed, kitchenette, high vaulted ceilings, open full...

"The Grotto" alkali basin burghal flat attic vacation & accumulated rental

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A Lazy Man's Pond How To Construct One

!9#: A Lazy Man's Pond How To Construct One

So you do not fancy an above ground pond, there are plenty of options, you could build one using concrete.

1. This is a big challenge unless you happen to work in the building industry and have the skills. I am not saying amateurs can not achieve a nice pond I have seen some amazing fish ponds built by total beginners.

2. But I am idle, and the thought of a spade in my hand brings me out in a cold sweat, so it is back to the lazy mans way.

3. How about a pond liner, or a ready formed pool there are some fantastic designs out there, but my biggest problem is how do you finish the edges off on a ready formed structure.

We are going to talk about a pond liner today, there is still a lot of spade work involved, but I am going to tell you how to get out of this, and let someone else do the work for you.

Simple invite a few mates around armed with a spade each, make sure you have some wheel barrows handy. Give them a couple of trays of beer and find an excuse to go out somewhere, a pretend hospital appointment is always a good one to use.

The easiest way to determine your design is to lay a hose pipe on the ground roughly in the shape you want, or trail handfuls of sand into the desired effect. Look sympathetically at your mates apologize profusely about you having forgotten this hospital appointment and leave quickly.

After two or three hours return, and hopefully they will have finished the hole in the ground for you. You can then take over still delegating jobs if need be, when it is completely finished drive your friends home because they will be over the limit now, and that is it, all the hard work done and you are just left with the easy job of completing the pond.

When you purchase your pond liner tell the guy in the shop how big the pool is going to be, because you will need a fair bit of excess material.

1. You will have to have some sort of protection on the ground for the liner otherwise, it could be punctured by sharp stones or the like.

2. Roofing felt is a good material to use, just lay it in the bottom of the hole and overlap it where necessary, the ground covering I like to use is loft insulation it is pretty cheap and simple to put down.

3. Now it is just a case of laying the liner on top of the covering, you may need a hand to do this because it can be fairly heavy.

Do not cut any excess of yet, rig your hose pipe up and start to fill with water, smoothing creases out with you hands, you do not have to do this but I am a bit fussy and I like to see as few creases as possible.

Let the water run into the pond until you have your desired height, this will stretch the liner and it will fill all of the nooks and crannies.

You have to decide what sort of edging to use now, there are a multitude of materials you could use, but by far the easiest and quickest is paving slabs.

Lay the slabs onto a bed of mortar ( mixed sand and cement ) directly onto the pond liner edges this is basically just to stop them rocking when walked on.

When this is done you can trim the excess liner off, that is it your pond is finished.

Do not put fish into the pool yet tap water has chlorine in it, deadly to fish, you can buy a product from your pet shop to get rid of chlorine, it is not too expensive and well worthwhile.

Leave the pool as it is for five to seven days for all of the chlorine to be removed from the water.

Now is the really good bit, go and buy your fish plants and a water fountain if you want one, I like to see them in a pool it just gives the water that little something extra.

Put your plants in your pond you may have to stand them on a brick to get them to the height you require, put the water fountain in, remember water and electricity do not mix, so get some qualified help here.

Then it is a matter of putting the fish in the pond, get a deck chair and your favourite tipple sit back and enjoy.

But that is not the end of the story, you have still got masses to learn get yourself a good book on general pond maintenance, and study it.

Before I forget your friends will only fall for helping you out the once, so make sure the pond is the size you really wanted, as you may have difficulty getting them back again.

A Lazy Man's Pond How To Construct One

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TV Stand Cabinets and More

!9#: TV Stand Cabinets and More

A TV stand cabinet is a type of TV stand that has doors that allow you to hide the television. TV stand cabinets provide plenty of storage for other electronic equipment like DVD players, and music systems, as well for accessories like CDs and DVDs by having several drawers or shelves. They are not just an add-on to your furniture in the house, besides keeping the TV; they also provide space to keep your tapes, magazines, and CDs in an organized way. With most sets wired to a VCR at least, the modern household needs a central location for everything-including a place to hide the wires and store videotapes, to give a clean, neat appearance.

How Does the TV Stand Cabinet Differ From Other Basic TV Stands?

TV stand cabinets take up more space than basic TV stands. It's different from other TV stands because not all TV stands are of cabinet style. In order to allow access to their full functionality they need ample space. TV stand cabinet serves utility purpose compared to other basic TV stands.

Different Types of TV Stand Cabinets

Some TV stand cabinets are built-box type with glass doors and built-in shelves inside it to store the TV, DVD player and other equipment. Some have wooden doors to keep the TV elegantly under wraps until you wish to watch your favorite show! The full-width front doors on the TV cabinet are mounted on retractable slides that allow the doors to slip back into the case sides for unobstructed viewing, they are also known as pocket doors. The box type TV cabinet has currently given way to proper entertainment units, TV trolleys, storage plus TV cabinet etc. With the emergence of plasma TV and other flat screen TV in the market, the TV cabinet has also transformed to a modern and sleek look. Modern day TV cabinets do not have an enclosing framework. The TV is kept on the top of the cabinet while the lower half of the cabinet is used for storage purposes. Such cabinets have adjustable shelves to facilitate the storage of different types of things. However, some TV stands are available with enclosing framework with advancement in mechanism.

TV Lift Cabinets

TV lift cabinet is equipped with motorized function, which serves the advantage of being able store your TV out of sight while not in use. This can keeps your TV in a safe, protected area while not in use so that you don't have to worry about it getting broken, especially if you have children. TV lifts cabinets come in all sorts of different shapes and sizes to match with your demand.

Corner TV Stand Cabinet

This type takes advantage of unused corner space while providing drawers and cabinets for movies and equipment. The corner TV stand cabinet creates a stylish spot for your TV and accessories. When the TV is placed in a corner it can be viewed from any other part of the room allowing much more efficient use of the room.

TV Stand Cabinets with Wheels /Casters

This feature allows you to easily move and place where ever you wish to keep your TV stand and watch. This kind of TV stand cabinet can be useful if you want to temporary remove it to free space.

Different Options

The look of TV Cabinet has changed significantly over the years. TV stand cabinets can come in many variations under different brands. They are manufactured using several kinds of materials ranging from wood to MDF to glass. They are available with many styles ranging from traditional to modern, so that they can fit in to any room. However, they can be divided into few wide categories based on their size and functionality. Some brands provide you with add-ons like the side cabinet. They serve as an upgrade to your present TV cabinet. TV stands cabinets are available in a huge number of styles, finishes, veneers, laminates in a variety of price ranges.

Style

TV stand cabinets are available is variety of styles such as antique, contemporary, or country. You can choose from any of the styles to enhance the look of your décor. You can also choose from different categories that are apt for your living room, bedroom or office. Modern TV stands are often the most popular because of their streamlined and contoured design. These will be the right one for office use. Traditional TV stands feature lots of detail either in the form of carving or other such ornate embellishments. A more traditional TV stand on the other hand, has a much older fashioned look and can be a good addition to your living room or bedroom.

Price Range

Everyone has their price. You can select from an array of great products based upon your price. This will also help you to get the TV stand that suits your criteria.
Material

They can be made from brass, bronze, metal, steel, wood, or even glass! Different kinds of wood used for manufacturing TV cabinets vary from cedar, oak, rosewood, mahogany, maple, teak etc.

Finish
A number of finish options are available for you to choose and match with your other furniture. You can choose from birch, black, cherry, hardwood, mahogany, maple, veneer, white, alder, ash, ivory, oak, red etc.

Size

TV stands are available in different width and height options to match your requirement and to keep your things organized in the way you like.

TV Stand Cabinets and More

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Part 1 - The Lost World by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (Chs 01-07)

!9# Part 1 - The Lost World by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (Chs 01-07)

Part 1. Classic Literature VideoBook with synchronized text, interactive transcript, and closed captions in multiple languages. Audio courtesy of Librivox. Read by Mark F. Smith. Playlist for The Lost World by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle: www.youtube.com

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Part 2 - Uncle Tom's Cabin by Harriet Beecher Stowe (Chs 8-11)

!9# Part 2 - Uncle Tom's Cabin by Harriet Beecher Stowe (Chs 8-11)

Part 2. Classic Literature VideoBook with synchronized text, interactive transcript, and closed captions in multiple languages. Audio courtesy of Librivox. Read by John Greenman. Playlist for Uncle Tom's Cabin by Harriet Beecher Stowe: www.youtube.com

Part 2 - Uncle Tom's Cabin by Harriet Beecher Stowe (Chs 8-11)

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Powell Teen Trends Study Loft Bed, Full

!9# Powell Teen Trends Study Loft Bed, Full

Rate : | Price : $921.00 | Post Date : Nov 11, 2011 01:30:24
Usually ships in 5 to 7 days

The ultimate in durability, functionality, and just plain cool design. A complete youth bedroom in the space of a full size bed. This versatile loft bunk includes a full size upper bunk and a study desk unit underneath. Desk is set up to handle computers or video games with pull-out keyboard tray, hanging shelves and cd racks. Made from industrial strength powder coated square tube, barstock and sheet steel in a silver finish with inset laminated top panel. An upbeat, cool look thats not just for school anymore. Bunk includes changeable Navy, Powder Blue, White and 2 Orange small panels. Desk includes changeable Navy, Powder Blue and Orange large panels. Uses standard full size mattress. Some assembly required.

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Lot 125 The Colony @ Lexington Plantation

!9# Lot 125 The Colony @ Lexington Plantation

For more details click here: www.visualtour.com 148 Huzzas Circle Cameron, NC 28326 7900, 4 bed, 2.5 bath, 2195 SF, MLS# 365770 he Cardinal Plan - The covered front porch welcomes you to this open floor plan with coffered ceilings in the formal dining room. A large kitchen with island opening to generous sized eat in nook and powder room. The kitchen and nook open to the large family room with fireplace. Access the covered porch from the nook. Upstairs you will find a relaxing master suite with cathedral ceiling, his and her walk in closets, dual vanities, garden tub and separate shower. Large laundry room, three bedrooms and a shared full bath. There is also a loft at the landing. Presented By: Bragg About Homes Team, Coldwell Banker Advantage 910-483-5353 www.BraggAboutHomes.com View My Inventory www.visualtour.com

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Build Furniture Without a Woodworking Workshop

!9# Build Furniture Without a Woodworking Workshop

When you get started in woodworking there are many paths to follow, forks in the road, dead-ends and shortcuts. It's a journey that our forebears would make with the help of a living, breathing guide: a master, a grandfather, a shop teacher.

Sadly, the guides are fewer in number today. And so you are left with people like me to help. Like the making of meat byproducts, it's not a pretty sight. Getting your woodworking instruction from books, magazines, television and an occasional class is a slow way to learn a complex task. In fact, many woodworkers spend a long time (years!) simply accumulating machines and tools before they ever build a single stick of furniture. And when they do begin to build, they inevitably discover that they actually need different machines and tools to make what they really want to make.

So they buy more tools and machines.

I want you to know something important that does not get said much: There is another way to begin building furniture. You don't need a table saw, a workbench or even a shop. You don't need to spend ,000 to build your first birdhouse. You can go to the home center in the morning and build something in the garage on the same day.

I'm not talking about building junk, either. The difference between a nice-looking set of bookshelves and a rude assemblage of 2x4s isn't a table saw. The difference is cleverness, sound design and just a wee bit of patience.

To build nice furniture you need three things: A handful of decent tools that you won't outgrow, some help getting started and some realistic projects to build.

The core of "I Can Do That" is a free 79-page manual you can download at popularwoodworking.com/icandothat that will help you choose all your tools and introduce you to the skills you need to cut wood and put the pieces together. The other essential component -- project plans -- can be found on many woodworking websites.

Eventually, we think you will outgrow this approach to construction as your skills improve. I bet you will want a table saw someday. And a drill press. And a smoothing plane. When that day comes, however, you will also have a house full of well-proportioned, well-built projects under your belt. You will be ready for those awesome tools, and the learning curve will be mercifully shorter.

If all this sounds like something that a bunch of idealists cooked up at a corporate strategy meeting, you're wrong. Though I had some carpentry training from my father and grandfather, I started building furniture on my back porch in Lexington KY, with a similar set of tools. Probably the only major difference is that I had a circular saw instead of a miter saw (at the time I did not know those existed). I built a lot of stuff with my simple setup -- some stuff we still have today and some stuff was long ago abandoned at the curb.

So this, dear readers, is a valid path.

My only regret in following it is that I wish that I had this manual (or a master woodworker) to make my journey easier.

Rules for Tools
I am not an emotional guy. I don't get nostalgic about high school, my first car or my first dog. I don't much hugs from family members at holiday gatherings. But I do have the deepest respect and affection for my tools. The care you give tools will gush readily into the things you build with them. None of the tools in the kit we recommend should be disposable; if you take good care of them, they will last.

First, take a look at the list of tools in the box on the previous page. You probably have at least a few of these tools already, even if you're an apartment dweller. The remainder can all be bought at any home center with a minimal investment. But before you rush out and spend your beer money, take a moment to read about my tool-buying philosophy.

You want to be careful when buying tools because these tools should last most of your lifetime. You won't replace these tools with fancy machinery when your skills advance, so you don't want to buy the cheapest tools on display in the tool crib.

So what's wrong with that jigsaw? Everything. Chances are the motor is underpowered, the bearings (if it even has bearings) are flimsy and the electronics are poorly insulated. Push the tool a little hard and it will -- no lie -- catch fire.

That said, you also want to avoid the tools that are loaded with lots of gizmos and features (with the price tag to match). In general, tools with lasers, bubble levels, wrist straps, micro-adjustable doo-dads and digital readouts are not necessary for accurate work. In fact, they might actually make life harder for you.

So I recommend you do two things. First, before you go shopping, visit toolseeker.com and browse around so you can see what brands and models are out there. Toolseeker.com also will help you figure out what to expect as far as price. Second, when you go shopping, seek out the brand-name tools, but choose a brand's stripped-down version of the tool.

Here's an example::Let's say you want to buy a random-orbit sander, and you like the Porter-Cable brand. The company offers the 343 model for and the 344 for . The more expensive model has variable speed. And while variable speed might sound helpful, it's not useful in a sander, really. Skip it and spend the on wood, glue or finish.

This philosophy extends to blades, bits and sandpaper. Buy brand names. Nothing is more expensive than cheap sandpaper, bargain blades or no-name drill bits. But don't buy the fancy professional accessories with plastic cases and flashy graphics. Flashy graphics are supposed to impress the guys on the job site. At home you will impress only the family dog.

Once you get your tools home, treat them like shards of the true cross. Never ever let your tools rust. Rust spreads like a cancer in ferrous materials (iron and steel) and can make your measuring and cutting tools difficult to use. There are a lot of products out there to prevent and remove rust, but the best thing going cannot be found on the shelf: a small can of vigilance.

When you are done with a tool, wipe down the metal surfaces -- especially the cutting surface -- with a rag that has been soaked with WD-40. Always keep the rag nearby (mine is seven years old) and renew it with a squirt of WD-40 when it gets dry. Wiping your tool down does two things: First, it removes dust from the tool. Dust can carry salt. Salt attracts water. The combination of salt and moisture will start breaking down your iron and steel tools.

Second, the WD-40 helps prevent rust by forming a thin protective barrier, albeit one that must be constantly renewed to be effective. Other people will disparage WD-40 (I once did). Ignore them.

Buying Materials
Another key component to the "I Can Do That" philosophy is that all the materials come from a home center. You don't have to buy your materials there, but you also don't have to trek out to some exotic hardwood supplier, learn the foreign language of lumber and spend a ridiculous sum on wood for a purpleheart planter box.

The truth is, you can build a lot of nice things with the run-of-the-mill (literally) lumber and plywood from a home center. You just have to learn how to shop for it.

Let's talk about home-center wood. In general, you are going to find lots of construction lumber -- white pine, yellow pine, Douglas fir and perhaps hemlock. This is sold in thicknesses best for construction 2x4s, 2x6s, 2x8s and so on. There are times you are going to want to pick through this stuff, but when you do, you need to know that it is usually too wet to be used immediately for furniture. If you buy construction lumber, take it home, crosscut it to rough length and let it dry out for a couple weekends before you dive in. You'll be glad you did.

In addition to construction lumber, you'll find hardwoods and softwoods that are thinner and designed to be used for trimwork in a house and even furniture. This stuff has been planed to 3/4" thick and is in convenient furniture-sized hunks. But you need to be quite wary of it. Why?

Well, first off, this stuff is far more expensive than wood will be at an old-fashioned lumberyard -- convenience costs, I tell you. And though it's quite expensive, the really flat and clear boards are just as overpriced as the warped, knotty and split ones.

So sort though the entire pile of wood when looking for boards. Yes, you might get dirty looks from the employees; but if you are going to pay for a pine 1x12, then by God you should get the best one in the store. When you are done, re-assemble the store's wood pile so it is better than you found it.

What sort of furniture woods are you going to find at the home center? For the most part, lots of pine, red oak, poplar, and sometimes maple and aspen. You can build a lot of nice stuff using this wood, especially if you are willing to paint your projects (we will talk about finishing next).

Also, don't forget to visit the moulding section of the home center. You can get away with a lot of store-bought moulding when building furniture -- you don't have to have a router. And the nice thing is that most stores sell the moulding by the linear foot, so you can cut what you need right there (and get some practice with a handsaw.)

As far as fasteners go, let me put one little bug in your ear. The worst thing you can do is to buy screws and other fasteners in those little boxes and plastic bags. You know, the ones that have five wood screws in them. Those are, for the most part, made from soft metal and cost too much. If I have to buy screws at a home center, I will buy a box of 100 or more that are intended for home builders. Heck, I would buy drywall screws before I would buy the little plastic baggies.

And as far as glues go, you're in luck. Home centers have a great selection of glue. Just don't buy the no-name stuff. It might be great. It might not. The name brands (Titebond, Probond, Gorilla) don't cost much more.

Finishing Materials
When it comes to finishing materials you are in tremendous luck when it comes to shopping at a home center. If you know what to look for you can achieve almost any kind of finish you desire.

First, let me say a word about paint. Don't let other magazines or woodworkers bully you out of using paint. A lot of excellent and well-made furniture is painted (for example, virtually every Windsor chair ever made). Personally, I love paint on certain pieces. It allows the graphic lines of a project to really stand out. Paint allows you to easily get the color exactly like you want it. And it's a finish that is hard to mess up. In general, I find that latex semi-gloss paint works very well for furniture. It's durable, doesn't stink up the house like oil-based paint and is easy to clean up.

But what if you don't like paint? Again, you're in luck. Home centers carry a wide variety of stains. And here's a trick that you don't hear a lot: You can mix two (or three or more) stains to get the color you are looking for. Just be sure to mix oil-based stain with oil-based stain, and water-based with water-based.

And while we are talking stains, I recommend you avoid the products that both stain and protect your project. These "one-step" products are usually just stains with a little more binder material in them. They offer little protection to your project, and I don't think they look good, either.

Instead, you should protect your wood with some sort of film finish. In general, you are going to find three sorts of products at the home center that will do this.

There will be Watco, Danish oil and tung oil. These usually are a blend of boiled linseed oil and varnish. It's OK stuff, but you need four or five coats to build up a nice film.

You'll find lots of polyurethane. In general, I think polyurethane is harder than necessary; plus, it doesn't bond well to itself. So sometimes a coat can flake off. If you use polyurethane, be sure to sand the finish thoroughly between coats with #320-grit sandpaper or sanding sponges.

You'll also find varnish or spar varnish. This is the good stuff. It's a lot like polyurethane, except it's a bit softer and bonds more easily to itself. Buy a can of varnish and a can of paint thinner/mineral spirits (they are the same thing). Thin your varnish with three parts varnish and one part paint thinner and you can then apply a nice thin coat with a rag. After three coats or so, you'll build up a nice sheen. Just be sure to sand your finish between coats.

Finally, get some paste wax and some way to apply it. I like the fine synthetic steel wool, which is a gray pad. The gray pad will smooth your finish to the touch and the wax will give the whole project a nice consistent sheen.

Don't Forget Your Workmate
The last important piece of your toolkit is a Workmate. This is a portable workbench that you will never outgrow, even if you become obsessed with workbenches, build 10 of them and write a book about it.

The Workmate is one of the greatest woodworking inventions of the 20th century. It's a big vise, a worktable, a clamping surface, a stepstool. With a Workmate, you can work almost anywhere in the house or yard.

When you buy one, get the nicest one in the store (I know that this contradicts my earlier advice on tools). The plastic ones are not so nice. In fact, the best way to buy a Workmate it to pick up an old one from a garage sale. My Jimmy Carter-era one cost me and even included the plastic dogs, which are great for holding panels.

Now Get to Work
Once you buy your tools, pick out a project and get your materials, you should dive immediately into the project. No matter how daunting the joinery journey ahead, I promise you that most of the barriers in woodworking are mental. The first step is always the hardest, and that's true when it comes to cutting your first pocket-screw hole or sand-shading your first piece of inlay.

'I Can Do That' Tool List
The foundation of the "I Can Do That" approach is the small number of tools you need to build nice and sturdy furniture. Here's a list of the basic kit.

- 12" combination square
- 16' tape measure
- jigsaw
- 10" miter saw
- 7 1/4" circular saw
- electric drill
- scratch awl and brad awl
- bastard-cut file
- file card
- palm-grip random-orbit sander
- block plane
- combination oilstone
- pocket-hole jig or a biscuit joiner
- 16 oz. hammer
- nail sets
- 4-in-1 screwdriver
- Workmate
- F-style clamps

Build Furniture Without a Woodworking Workshop

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Twin and Full Size Bunk Beds

!9# Twin and Full Size Bunk Beds

Bunk beds are generally found in two sizes, twin and full size. These bed sizes can be paired together or mixed to create a bunk design to suit the needs of the buyer. You will find bunk beds that have two twins, bunks with two full beds, or bunk beds with a twin on top and a full at the bottom.

Twin size beds are most common and there are still many people who are not even aware that they can acquire a full size in bunk bed form. The standard design for twin beds is usually the classic one twin over another, but there are actually different ways that the two twins can be adjoined. For instance, you may find them in the cross roads style, where one twin is turned horizontal and the other is vertical. So if you were to look at it from above the two beds would make a cross.

Twin and full size bunk beds can sometimes be linked with each other, this is where you will find the smaller bed at the top, this being the twin, and the full size bed at the bottom. Together, they usually resemble a step. You can also find the crossroads design with the combination of these two bed sizes.

If it's just one child and you still want to save on space within the room, you can opt for a twin over futon bed, this is where the twin bed would still be on top and a sofa attached at the bottom. Kids will still be able to entertain their friends and have a lot of space in the room for other things.

Twin and full size bunk beds are the easiest way to select beds that are right for your children while getting more than one child to share a room. This way you do not have to move to a bigger house or incorporate another room, especially if space is limited. Both kids can have their own beds and still share a room and have space for their other items. Some twin and full size beds are made with drawers attached to the bottom bunk and this allows for more storage space within that one spot.

Twin and Full Size Bunk Beds

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409 Mystic Trail Loop- 2nd floor

!9# 409 Mystic Trail Loop- 2nd floor

2 generously sized secondary bedrooms each with a walk in closet. Full size bath and an open loft area to entertain!

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!9# Loft Bed Full Size Work Station

Brand : Coaster | Rate : | Price : $427.50
Post Date : Oct 02, 2011 13:03:43 | Usually ships in 3-4 business days

Loft Bed Full Size Work Station

• Some assembly may be required. Please see product details.

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Loft Bed Full Size Work Station

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!9# Coaster Kid's GI Child Bunk Bed with Slide and Tent, Twin Size

Brand : Coaster Home Furnishings | Rate : | Price : $321.00
Post Date : Sep 24, 2011 02:34:41 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Coaster Kid's GI Child Bunk Bed with Slide and Tent, Twin Size

• 115"L x 100"W x 50"H
• Some assembly may be required. Please see product details.
• Kids and Youth

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Coaster Kid's GI Child Bunk Bed with Slide and Tent, Twin Size

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!9# Teen Nick Studio Loft Bed Full

Brand : Lea | Rate : | Price : $1,552.04
Post Date : Sep 19, 2011 10:57:05 | Usually ships in 4-5 business days

Teen Nick Studio Loft Bed Full

No longer a little kid but not quite a teenager, tweens live in a constant state of transition. The TweenNick collection from Nickelodeon Rooms bridges the gap with grown-up, tween-friendly furniture. Beds are the focal point of the TweenNick colection, and the modular components and unique functional features will allow your tween to personalize their room. Close the curtains on the girls' suite or boy's loft and your tween can have some much needed downtime and privacy. Add in a nesting chaise, mobile futon or rocker chair and it becomes the place to chill with friends. Orange drawer pulls and glow-in-the-dark accents make the room a fun place to be. Accent chests in funky shapes combine with all-over graphics or touches of dripping glow-in-the-dark slime to add a bit of rebellious irreverence to any room.

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Dorel Home Products Abode Full Size Loft Bed, Silver

!9# Dorel Home Products Abode Full Size Loft Bed, Silver

Rate : | Price : | Post Date : Sep 17, 2011 03:43:00
Usually ships in 4-5 business days

This trendy loft bunk bed embraces both trend and functionality. The piece creates a sense of privacy and provides a quiet spot to study or relax.

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